[Woodworkers] Copper metal working
Dominic58
dominic58 at comcast.net
Wed Mar 31 21:17:16 PST 2021
Hey chuck, I work with copper bar and plate and it’s a great it’s a really good conductor of heat, if your drilling go slow and use cutting fluid. It gets hot and stays hot for a while.
I have some really thin pieces of copper I saved with the intent of making a inlay or onlay one day, I believe there 4 x 8” if this is something your interested in shoot me a email and we can chat about it.
Thank you
Dominic P
> On Mar 31, 2021, at 3:06 PM, Steve Bigelow via Woodworkers <woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:
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> Awesome tip on modifying the bits. I'm thinking that it would also extend to drilling sheet metal where the bits tend to grab.
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>> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 8:46 PM chuck.steger--- via Woodworkers <woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:
>> Cosmin,
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>> Great tip thanks!
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>> Chuck
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>> From: Woodworkers <woodworkers-bounces at lists.sawdusters.org> On Behalf Of Cosmin Dini via Woodworkers
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2021 4:49 PM
>> To: woodworkers at sawdusters.org
>> Cc: Cosmin Dini <wm_crash at hotmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Woodworkers] Copper metal working
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>> If you are going to drill the copper, you might consider modifying a drill bit to be more suitable for the operation. Have a look:
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>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA
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>> If you are going to cut the sphere, you can get quite far with a hacksaw. Cut around so the final break is in the middle. Then it's not that difficult to sand flat the flat portion of the half sphere.
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>> cheers,
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>> Cosmin
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>> Spare parts #7 - Modifying A Twist Drill For Drilling Brass
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>> Modifying A Twist Drill For Drilling Brass, by Clickspring Drilling brass with a standard twist drill carries a hazard with it, that can be easily avoided with a simple modification to the drill bit. Its simple, fast and very effective. The main project video that this video is related to is "How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part ...
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>> www.youtube.com
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>> From: Woodworkers <woodworkers-bounces at lists.sawdusters.org> on behalf of Greg via Woodworkers <woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org>
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2021 9:24 PM
>> To: Sawdusters <woodworkers at sawdusters.org>
>> Cc: Greg <dasnipa at gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Woodworkers] Copper metal working
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>> How about a homemade extruder?
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>> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021, 5:23 PM Jason Beam via Woodworkers <woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:
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>> I like this suggestion of drilling on the lathe a lot more. The grabbiness of the copper is a lot less of a factor when you're feeding with the tailstock of a lathe.
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>> Jason Beam
>> Beamer's Brands
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>> On 3/30/2021 2:18 PM, Richard Allen via Woodworkers wrote:
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>> I have turned copper on a wood lathe before. I would take a 7/8” rod about 2” long an turn a sphere at one end. The end being held by the lathe could be turned down to a suitable diameter so the sphere would be attached to the rod as a single piece of copper. Another option would be to drill and tap the 1” sphere and thread some of your 3/8” rod to screw into the taped sphere. Copper drills fine. Plan on discarding the drill bit as sometimes the copper will “weld” to the drill bit. I would do the drilling with the 1” sphere in a chuck on the lathe. I would turn down the 1” sphere by mounting the 3/8” rod in a chuck on the lathe. Copper turns with a scraper. It is a fairly slow process but 10 minutes of scraper work and 15 minutes of sanding and polishing should give you a sphere shape to your likening
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>> On Mar 30, 2021, at 5:02 PM, chuck.steger--- via Woodworkers <woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:
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>> Hope everyone is safe and healthy!
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>> I need some advice on working solid copper. I’ll give you some context on what I’m doing.
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>> I designing and building a Heritage Box for someone. Everything that goes into the design and construction will have some elements from their cultural background. Their mother and grandparents lived and worked in a copper mining town in Chile and copper was a big part of their lives. To bring copper into the design, I will attach the legs to the box using copper rods. Since the legs taper, I will use 1/8”, 3/16”, and ¼” rods and leave a ¼” gap between the legs and box. But this is subtle and I wanted to add something else. So I want to add a copper sphere at the top of the box. I drew up the design full scale and the sphere looks good at ¾”. So, I started researching copper spheres and what I found are jewelry spheres ½” and less or solid spheres 1” and greater. I ordered the 1” spheres which are actually used for plating copper.
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>> So here are some of my issues/questions/concerns:
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>> Is there any way possible to reduce the diameter? I thought about some kind of holding contraption on a lathe and then using files but that just sounds like a bad idea.
>> The sphere weights in at 3 oz. Now that may seem light but it’s a little heftier that I wanted because I don’t want it to tip the box over when hinged open. The box footprint will be 8”x12” so it may be OK. I will build a prototype as I always do so I’ll find out. Also with a prototype it will be easy to see if 1” is too big. A ¾” hollow sphere would be perfect but I can’t find that.
>> Will solid copper drill OK? I would like to drill a hole for a rod to anchor the sphere to the box. I will epoxy the sphere to a cradle but a rod would be so much more secure IMO. And, given the weight, I would feel better.
>> Here’s another take …. Is there a way to cut the sphere in ½” I only have WW bandsaws so even with a metal blade, WW bandsaws run too fast, don’t they? The thought process here is maybe I take the two half spheres and attach them to the side of the box as an adornment. The design will be mostly Asian so spheres might look good.
>> So you can see the design is in total flux. I’ve started building the prototype out of pine.
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>> Chuck
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