[Woodworkers] Copper metal working

Steve Bigelow sbig333 at gmail.com
Wed Mar 31 19:06:33 PST 2021


Awesome tip on modifying the bits. I'm thinking that it would also extend
to drilling sheet metal where the bits tend to grab.



On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 8:46 PM chuck.steger--- via Woodworkers <
woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:

> Cosmin,
>
>    Great tip thanks!
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> *From:* Woodworkers <woodworkers-bounces at lists.sawdusters.org> *On Behalf
> Of *Cosmin Dini via Woodworkers
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 30, 2021 4:49 PM
> *To:* woodworkers at sawdusters.org
> *Cc:* Cosmin Dini <wm_crash at hotmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Woodworkers] Copper metal working
>
>
>
> If you are going to drill the copper, you might consider modifying a drill
> bit to be more suitable for the operation. Have a look:
>
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA
>
>
>
> If you are going to cut the sphere, you can get quite far with a hacksaw.
> Cut around so the final break is in the middle. Then it's not that
> difficult to sand flat the flat portion of the half sphere.
>
>
>
> cheers,
>
> Cosmin
>
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA>
>
> Spare parts #7 - Modifying A Twist Drill For Drilling Brass
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA>
>
> Modifying A Twist Drill For Drilling Brass, by Clickspring Drilling brass
> with a standard twist drill carries a hazard with it, that can be easily
> avoided with a simple modification to the drill bit. Its simple, fast and
> very effective. The main project video that this video is related to is
> "How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part ...
>
> www.youtube.com
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Woodworkers <woodworkers-bounces at lists.sawdusters.org> on behalf
> of Greg via Woodworkers <woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 30, 2021 9:24 PM
> *To:* Sawdusters <woodworkers at sawdusters.org>
> *Cc:* Greg <dasnipa at gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Woodworkers] Copper metal working
>
>
>
> How about a homemade extruder?
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021, 5:23 PM Jason Beam via Woodworkers <
> woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:
>
> I like this suggestion of drilling on the lathe a lot more. The grabbiness
> of the copper is a lot less of a factor when you're feeding with the
> tailstock of a lathe.
>
> Jason Beam
> *Beamer's Brands <https://beamerweb.com>*
>
> On 3/30/2021 2:18 PM, Richard Allen via Woodworkers wrote:
>
> I have turned copper on a wood lathe before.  I would take a 7/8” rod
> about 2” long an turn a sphere at one end.  The end being held by the lathe
> could be turned down to a suitable diameter so the sphere would be attached
> to the rod as a single piece of copper.  Another option would be to drill
> and tap the 1” sphere and thread some of your 3/8” rod to screw into the
> taped sphere.  Copper drills fine.  Plan on discarding the drill bit as
> sometimes the copper will “weld” to the drill bit.  I would do the drilling
> with the 1” sphere in a chuck on the lathe.  I would turn down the 1”
> sphere by mounting the 3/8” rod in a chuck on the lathe.  Copper turns with
> a scraper.  It is a fairly slow process but 10 minutes of scraper work and
> 15 minutes of sanding and polishing should give you a sphere shape to your
> likening
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 30, 2021, at 5:02 PM, chuck.steger--- via Woodworkers
> <woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org> <woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org>
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hope everyone is safe and healthy!
>
>    I need some advice on working solid copper. I’ll give you some context
> on what I’m doing.
>
>    I designing and building a Heritage Box for someone. Everything that
> goes into the design and construction will have some elements from their
> cultural background. Their mother and grandparents lived and worked in a
> copper mining town in Chile and copper was a big part of their lives. To
> bring copper into the design, I will attach the legs to the box using
> copper rods. Since the legs taper, I will use 1/8”, 3/16”, and ¼” rods and
> leave a ¼” gap between the legs and box. But this is subtle and I wanted to
> add something else. So I want to add a copper sphere at the top of the box.
> I drew up the design full scale and the sphere looks good at ¾”. So, I
> started researching copper spheres and what I found are jewelry spheres ½”
> and less or solid spheres 1” and greater. I ordered the 1” spheres which
> are actually used for plating copper.
>
>    So here are some of my issues/questions/concerns:
>
>    - Is there any way possible to reduce the diameter? I thought about
>    some kind of holding contraption on a lathe and then using files but that
>    just sounds like a bad idea.
>    - The sphere weights in at 3 oz. Now that may seem light but it’s a
>    little heftier that I wanted because I don’t want it to tip the box over
>    when hinged open. The box footprint will be 8”x12” so it may be OK. I will
>    build a prototype as I always do so I’ll find out. Also with a prototype it
>    will be easy to see if 1” is too big. A ¾” hollow sphere would be perfect
>    but I can’t find that.
>    - Will solid copper drill OK? I would like to drill a hole for a rod
>    to anchor the sphere to the box. I will epoxy the sphere to a cradle but a
>    rod would be so much more secure IMO. And, given the weight, I would feel
>    better.
>    - Here’s another take …. Is there a way to cut the sphere in ½” I only
>    have WW bandsaws so even with a metal blade, WW bandsaws run too fast,
>    don’t they? The thought process here is maybe I take the two half spheres
>    and attach them to the side of the box as an adornment. The design will be
>    mostly Asian so spheres might look good.
>
>    So you can see the design is in total flux. I’ve started building the
> prototype out of pine.
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
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> hang out with me.
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