[Woodworkers] Resin Table

Steve Bigelow sbig333 at gmail.com
Tue Aug 3 14:32:55 PDT 2021 

I'm still getting caught up on emails after being gone for two weeks, but
it looks like this is coming along nicely!

What resin did you end up using here? I've been thinking about making one
of these.

Regards,
-Steve
http://woodworking.bigelowsite.com

On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 5:18 PM chuck.steger--- via Woodworkers <
woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:

>    This is the top (both sides) straight off of the slab flattening jig. I
> need to sand both sides down but wanted to show it now that it’s cleaned up.
>
>    The slab flattening jig was well worth the effort to make. If you can,
> flatten outside because it makes a mess. I did it inside because my
> workbench is my flattest surface. There was a lot of vacuuming during and
> after. My 2” surfacing router bit was not an issue for a couple of reasons.
> It fit my 2 ½ hp router base opening plus I needed to use an extension
> router collar so it hung below the base anyway. It worked out because I
> kept the router in the slab flattening carrier. I need to make the legs and
> apron but so far so good.
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> *From:* chuck.steger at gmail.com <chuck.steger at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 22, 2021 8:45 AM
> *To:* woodworkers at sawdusters.org
> *Subject:* RE: [Woodworkers] Resin Table
>
>
>
>    I just realized that I may have confused some people, especially if
> you’ve never done a resin pour. Most people who do a river table will take
> a board with natural edges on both sides and then split that board straight
> down the middle. The straight parts become the edges of the table and the
> wavy natural edges become the river (in the middle). You can then make the
> river as wide as you want.
>
>    In other cases (like mine), I wanted the resin to also be the edges. If
> you look at the before picture you will see the edges are natural and wavy.
> My resin is a translucent blue and if you look at after the pour, you can
> see the outline of the board edges. They say to make the form a little
> bigger than you want (in this case) so you can trim to the size you want.
> Once I plane down to the wood, the edges should become even clearer. At
> this point I plan on keeping the edges straight but another option would be
> to follow the curves and do some sort of edge treatment. I’m playing all of
> this by ear.
>
>    I wanted to clarify since this isn’t a true river table.
>
>    I was prepping my router for the surfacing bits. My largest router
> (DeWalt 3 ½ hp plunge) will not accommodate a 3” bit. I think 2” may fit.
> The bit will have to hang below the router base. I have to be very careful
> because a plunge router’s natural tendency (because of the springs) is to
> return up. I’ll have to hang the bit off of the wood (in my slab carrier)
> in a “free space”, slightly above the wood but away from my router base.
> Then I’ll plunge to a depth (set by my depth stop) and do a pass. Without
> raising the bit and in my free space, I’ll adjust the micro depth adjuster
> up a scootch and then plunge again. I’ll do this until I need to stop and
> check in which case I’ll return to my free space and shut off the router
> without retracting. This makes me nervous but as long as I am aware, I
> should be ok.
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> *From:* chuck.steger at gmail.com <chuck.steger at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 20, 2021 3:51 PM
> *To:* woodworkers at sawdusters.org
> *Subject:* RE: [Woodworkers] Resin Table
>
>
>
>    Some “before” pictures. Hopefully the “after” pictures will be better
> 🤞
>
>    As usual, I appreciate everyone’s tips! I spent yesterday making a
> shop-made slab flattening jig. I finished the router carrier and rails but
> then realized my only planer bit is a dado clean out bit. It’s too small
> and would take forever to do a slab. I ended up ordering 2 bits: (1) A
> Whiteside surfacing bit, ½” shank, with carbide tips, 2” cutting diameter
> and (2) a Binstak surfacing bit with Helix cutters, ½” shank, 3” cutting
> diameter. The helix cutters gives me 4 edges each and I ordered extra
> cutters. It will be interesting to see which one cuts smoother.
>
>    Early into the project, I already have lessons learned:
>
>    - I made the form pretty well. Very little leakage (very little) and
>    used packing tape on the bottom and insides. The sides popped off easily
>    and the bottom came off easily after using a wide putty knife.
>    - The mix went well. I used powdered pigment instead of liquid. Some
>    people think liquid changes the chemistry of the mix. Thoughts on that?
>    I’ve used liquid in small applications like filling a knot but also realize
>    that big-box epoxy is way different than deep pour epoxy.
>    - For first timers like me: The deep pour epoxy is real thin so you
>    have plenty of time to work with it (keep this in mind when making the
>    form). Mine said a 72 hour cure. The longer the cure, the more time air
>    bubble can come to the surface. I used a heat gun to bring bubbles to the
>    surface and even after that, some still rose (not a problem as I will need
>    to surface anyway). Thoughts on heat gun vs torch?
>    - I did not flatten the wood before the pour. My thought process was
>    it was only 4/4 thick and if I flatten now and then again after the pour,
>    it would be too thin. Not sure if that is a valid way to think about it.
>    After watching more YouTube videos I think I could have saved epoxy and not
>    have near the cleanup if I had flattened first.
>    - I should have screwed the wood down from the bottom. I didn’t
>    realize it was floating until I noticed the cracks weren’t complexly
>    filling. Some YouTubers use hot melt glue. Thoughts on holding wood down?
>    One YouTuber used clamps but he had silicone pads to place the clamp head
>    on. In the photos, the brick did help but I think the buildup on the bottom
>    had already started. With 2 bricks touching wood, one came off clean and
>    one was solidly epoxied to the top. Red brick is real hard and it would
>    have taken a long time to sand off so I chiseled it off.
>    - Given the wood wasn’t flattened before and I didn’t screw down the
>    wood, I really overpoured. At the time I though that more was better and
>    that I could always clean it up. In hind sight I’m having to clean up more
>    and the underside of the top has 1/8” thick resin build. I think some would
>    have leaked on the bottom but not 1/8” thick. A lot of YouTubers will
>    either fill slightly under to plane wood first and some fill slightly over
>    but none fill like I did ☹
>    - I left the bark on. One YouTuber thought the bark could separate
>    from the wood. I think the epoxy was so thin, it permeated the bark and
>    will hold. Thoughts?
>    - I’m glad I started with a small table.
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> *From:* Woodworkers <woodworkers-bounces at lists.sawdusters.org> *On Behalf
> Of *Gary C Williams via Woodworkers
> *Sent:* Monday, July 19, 2021 1:01 PM
> *To:* woodworkers at sawdusters.org
> *Cc:* gcw804 at aol.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Woodworkers] Resin Table
>
>
>
> Chuck,
>
>
>
> Show us some pictures when you get a chance.
>
>
>
> No matter what you use, you are either going to load up the sanding disks
> and belts, or dull your planer blades and router bits. I would probably go
> the route of using a jig and a router to level it, and then come back and
> do the final sanding with a Micro Mesh sanding pads..
>
> Router bits are relatively inexpensive.
>
>
>
> Make sure to wear a respirator.
>
>
>
> Good Luck.
>
>
>
>
>
> Gary Williams
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   Which leads me to my questions:
>
>    What do you use to level the table and sand the resin? I tried a belt
> sander but it loads up real quickly. Will the resin dull my planer knives
> if I send it through the planer? I have a drum sander but if the belt
> sander loaded up, wouldn’t the drum sander? I thought about putting it back
> in the form and use a router to level. The top wasn’t totally level but I
> could use wedges to level, then route. The underside of the top has a good
> 1/8” to 3/16” of resin and I’d like to take that down to the wood. One
> YouTube video said they liked Micro Mesh sanding pads because they are
> porous and vacuum easily but that would be a lot of sanding to remove 1/8”
> or more.
>
>    Advice? Thanks!
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> I want to be one of my friends for a day so I can see how cool it is to
> hang out with me.
> Woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org
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> I want to be one of my friends for a day so I can see how cool it is to
> hang out with me.
> Woodworkers at lists.sawdusters.org
>
> To unsubscribe from this list -
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