[Woodworkers] Christmas present help needed!!
Jason Beam
beamer at beamerweb.com
Sun Dec 17 17:11:09 PST 2017
I was thinking more of after it was out of the clamps - i did 4 panels
once - glued them all up, the next day i pulled them out of the clamps
and stacked them on top of each other - the top one cupped like hell,
the 2nd a little less, etc... because i had no airflow on one of the faces.
Jason Beam
Sacramento, CA
On 12/17/2017 5:07 PM, Chuck Steger via Woodworkers wrote:
>
> Jason,
>
> No, I glued it up flat on the bench. I know what you mean, normally I
> glue panels on my Bessey clamps so they are elevated. In this case I
> offset the boards by 2” (alternating boards – picket fence style) so I
> cut two 3/8” dados (top and bottom of boards) for a 3/8” cleat that
> ran across the back to keep it aligned. Honestly, I also thought that
> would help keep it flat. So when I glued it, I did it face down on the
> bench so I could ensure the cleats were seated in the dados.
> Interestingly enough, the panel was flat coming out of the clamps and
> all day that day. It was flat when I left the shop that night.
>
> Gary,
>
> Yes, I have a joiner and planer so my first milling was to 1 ¼” and
> sit a day, then >7/8” and sit a day, and then final ¾”. But your point
> is well taken, I should have purchased them much earlier. The irony is
> I have some 2x4’s and a 2x10 in my shop that had been there for a
> while. I keep cheap wood like that to make prototypes. I knew I had
> them but I thought I would just go buy new and keep what I had. Lesson
> learned! In fact. I may go buy more to have in the shop just for
> occasions like this (my daughter and her family lean to the rustic). I
> did not alternate grain but I did use cauls. Thanks for the offer to
> call. I may still do it!
>
> I ended up spending the day trying to rescue what I had. The one panel
> made of 1x4’s is twisted and can’t be fixed. But the one I made out of
> milled 2x4’s had a cup in the center. Quite frankly, if the convex
> part of the cup was on the show side. I probably would have called it
> good. That would have put the sides flat against the wall and stable
> but if you looked from the top or bottom, you would see a gap in the
> middle. No one would see if from top or bottom (much) so I would have
> settled. However, the convex side was on the back so the middle of the
> panel would hit the wall first and it would have been wobbly. Given my
> time crunch, I decided to try to take the cup out using a jointer
> plane, finish plane, and a belt sander. I know that would have made
> the middle boards thinner than the end boards, but against a wall, who
> would notice. I was not successful doing that. So I decided to cut the
> panel in 2 (which cut my cleats also but now I only had to align 2
> panels, not 9 boards), plane it flat, and re-glue. This kind of
> worked. The problem was the planer pushed the panels flat so they were
> still not totally flat. So then I had this idea to use the TS as a
> jointer. In other words, If I hold then end of the ½ panel flat
> against the TS, it elevates the cut end a little (1/8”). I then did
> the same to the other ½ panel. In effect, what this did was when I
> glued both panels back together, the ends stayed flat to the table and
> the joint closed with no gaps. If you look under the panel, you see
> the ends fat on the table and the middle raised by about ¼”. I will
> find out tomorrow if this worked. I hate to even admit I’m doing it
> that way and with more time, I would remake from scratch with all of
> your suggestions. But, alas, time is not my friend. If I get the panel
> to look flat against the wall and not rock, I am going to call that
> success! Stay tuned.
>
> Chuck
>
> *From:*Woodworkers [mailto:woodworkers-bounces at lists.sawdusters.org]
> *On Behalf Of *Jason Beam via Woodworkers
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 17, 2017 6:08 PM
> *To:* Chuck Steger via Woodworkers
> *Cc:* Jason Beam
> *Subject:* Re: [Woodworkers] Christmas present help needed!!
>
> Did you leave the flat panel on a solid surface without equal airflow
> on both large faces?
>
> I did that once to some cherry panels - and got me a Pringle the next day
>
> Jason Beam
> Sacramento, CA
>
> On 12/17/2017 11:13 AM, Chuck Steger via Woodworkers wrote:
>
> A little long but please read as I need help!
>
> I’m making a photo board for my granddaughter (believe it or not
> they are actually printing pictures and the Polaroid is making a
> comeback). She likes rustic so I was going to make it out of pine
> (knots and all) and put a barn wood finish on it. Since it was
> going to be rustic, I figured I could skip a milling step and
> purchase 1x4 boards at Lowe’s. Most were badly warped but I found
> 3 - 10’ boards that were relatively straight. I thought that since
> they acclimated in the store, they should be good to go. Plus I
> was going to chop up into 2’ lengths so I could manage the warp. I
> set them aside in my climate controlled shop and went to finish
> the concrete truck for my grandson. When I went to retrieve the
> boards, they had warped badly. I knew better but I used them
> thinking I could force them straight at glue up. When I went to
> clamp them up, my heart-of-hearts knew it wasn’t going to work
> because they were warping at glue up. I had gone this far so I
> glued up, clamped down to a flat work bench and hoped for the
> best. Sure enough, when I removed the clamps, the panel was badly
> warped (unfortunately, I was not surprised).
>
> I realized I should have done what I planned to do in the first
> place and go get 2x4’s so I could mill the warp out. I got pretty
> straight 2x4’s and chopped into 2’ sections and ,milled down to 1
> ¼”. I stickered on my bench and let acclimate to shop for a day.
> Encouraging because as you looked at the stickered stack, they did
> not appear to be warping at all. So next day I milled down to just
> under 7/8” and stickered again overnight. Again stack looked good
> so I milled to final thickness of ¾’. As I was gluing up, I was
> very encouraged as the glue up was flat. No need to clamp to bench
> (I did anyway) but was very encouraged. Yesterday morning I
> unclamped and held my breath but, hooray, a flat panel. I sanded
> panel to remove glue marks and set aside to practice texturing
> sample boards for the barn wood finish (still nice and flat). This
> morning, I went into the shop and the panel was warped!! As I
> write this, I clamped the board flat to my bench and started to
> bring the temperature up in my shop. If I’m not working on
> anything, when I leave the shop for the night, I hold temp to 50
> degrees but if I’m working on something, I hold temp to 61. Why
> 61? Because I bring up temp in 3 degree increments to get to 70.
> Why 3 degrees? I don’t know, I just do.
>
> So I have questions: What happened? Is it the temperature
> fluctuations (and does 9 degrees really make a difference in
> warping)? But most importantly, what do I do now? I have less than
> a week to finish. I could do again with new 2x4’s but I’m not
> comfortable I wouldn’t have the same issue. As I send this I’m
> going back out to unclamp from the bench but I don’t expect it to
> stay flat.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> I want to be one of my friends for a day so I can see how cool it is to hang out with me.
>
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> _______________________________________________
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