[Woodworkers] Wood movement in Hand Mirror

[Roy Shrove]

I would think that as long as the wood you use for the mirrors is good and
dry, any movement would be to absorb moisture and get bigger...

My 2 cents....but what do I know... :-)

Roy

On Sat, Nov 19, 2016 at 11:51 AM, Chuck Steger <chuck.steger at gmail.com>
wrote:

>    I’m making some hand mirror’s (4x6 oval mirror) as Christmas presents.
> I used the actual mirror to rout a wooden mirror template (note: If you do
> this, the mirror will get beat up a little so make it a sacrifice mirror –
> not too bad at $2/mirror). I then took the mirror template and using
> different size router collars and a ¼” router bit, created an exact mirror
> hole template. This took several steps using different collars (who said
> woodworkers don’t use math!) but it created a piston fit between the solid
> template and hole template. I was really pleased it came out so well
> considering it’s a stepped process. Of course the real test is does the
> mirror fit and it is an exact fit. I will use the hole template and a
> pattern mortising bit to rout the recess for the mirror. I’ll also use the
> solid template to rout a channel for inlay around the mirror.
>
>
>
>    As pleased as I am that I achieved a piston fit in the 2 templates, I
> am now wondering if that is a good thing or not. In other words, will wood
> movement pop out the mirror or even break it? I plan to rout an 1/8” recess
> for the mirror and attach the mirror with carpet tape. I don’t want to glue
> mirror in case someone needs the mirror replaced (I’ve had to chisel out a
> glued mirror before and it is a PITA). Do I need to take a large dowel
> wrapped with sandpaper and open up the hole a little on the hole template?
> If so, how much?
>
>
>
>    I know wood moves in both directions (across the grain) and if you glue
> something in, sometimes it forces the wood movement to the outside (as
> opposed to the inside) but the mirror won’t be glued.
>
>
>
>    Thanks!
>
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
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