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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple style='word-wrap:break-word'><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Steve,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> I used Liquid Glass. It’s the first time I have used it. It’s on the lower end of the price line so I didn’t know if this was a “you get what you pay for” moment but so far I am really pleased.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> I’m attaching a couple of pictures of the top and underside when it was sanded to 400 grit. I’m making the aprons now. I decided that I wanted a resin stripe down the middle of the apron so I am making the forms now. Cross your fingers </span><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Segoe UI Emoji",sans-serif'>😊</span><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Brush Script MT"'>Chuck<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> Steve Bigelow <sbig333@gmail.com> <br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, August 03, 2021 4:33 PM<br><b>To:</b> woodworkers@sawdusters.org<br><b>Cc:</b> chuck.steger@gmail.com<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Woodworkers] Resin Table<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>I'm still getting caught up on emails after being gone for two weeks, but it looks like this is coming along nicely!<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>What resin did you end up using here? I've been thinking about making one of these. <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><br clear=all><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Regards,<br>-Steve<br><a href="http://woodworking.bigelowsite.com" target="_blank">http://woodworking.bigelowsite.com</a><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal>On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 5:18 PM chuck.steger--- via Woodworkers <<a href="mailto:woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org">woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> This is the top (both sides) straight off of the slab flattening jig. I need to sand both sides down but wanted to show it now that it’s cleaned up.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> The slab flattening jig was well worth the effort to make. If you can, flatten outside because it makes a mess. I did it inside because my workbench is my flattest surface. There was a lot of vacuuming during and after. My 2” surfacing router bit was not an issue for a couple of reasons. It fit my 2 ½ hp router base opening plus I needed to use an extension router collar so it hung below the base anyway. It worked out because I kept the router in the slab flattening carrier. I need to make the legs and apron but so far so good.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Brush Script MT"'>Chuck</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:chuck.steger@gmail.com" target="_blank">chuck.steger@gmail.com</a> <<a href="mailto:chuck.steger@gmail.com" target="_blank">chuck.steger@gmail.com</a>> <br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, July 22, 2021 8:45 AM<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:woodworkers@sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers@sawdusters.org</a><br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [Woodworkers] Resin Table<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> I just realized that I may have confused some people, especially if you’ve never done a resin pour. Most people who do a river table will take a board with natural edges on both sides and then split that board straight down the middle. The straight parts become the edges of the table and the wavy natural edges become the river (in the middle). You can then make the river as wide as you want.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> In other cases (like mine), I wanted the resin to also be the edges. If you look at the before picture you will see the edges are natural and wavy. My resin is a translucent blue and if you look at after the pour, you can see the outline of the board edges. They say to make the form a little bigger than you want (in this case) so you can trim to the size you want. Once I plane down to the wood, the edges should become even clearer. At this point I plan on keeping the edges straight but another option would be to follow the curves and do some sort of edge treatment. I’m playing all of this by ear.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> I wanted to clarify since this isn’t a true river table.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> I was prepping my router for the surfacing bits. My largest router (DeWalt 3 ½ hp plunge) will not accommodate a 3” bit. I think 2” may fit. The bit will have to hang below the router base. I have to be very careful because a plunge router’s natural tendency (because of the springs) is to return up. I’ll have to hang the bit off of the wood (in my slab carrier) in a “free space”, slightly above the wood but away from my router base. Then I’ll plunge to a depth (set by my depth stop) and do a pass. Without raising the bit and in my free space, I’ll adjust the micro depth adjuster up a scootch and then plunge again. I’ll do this until I need to stop and check in which case I’ll return to my free space and shut off the router without retracting. This makes me nervous but as long as I am aware, I should be ok.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Brush Script MT"'>Chuck</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:chuck.steger@gmail.com" target="_blank">chuck.steger@gmail.com</a> <<a href="mailto:chuck.steger@gmail.com" target="_blank">chuck.steger@gmail.com</a>> <br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 20, 2021 3:51 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:woodworkers@sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers@sawdusters.org</a><br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [Woodworkers] Resin Table<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> Some “before” pictures. Hopefully the “after” pictures will be better </span><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Segoe UI Emoji",sans-serif'>🤞</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> As usual, I appreciate everyone’s tips! I spent yesterday making a shop-made slab flattening jig. I finished the router carrier and rails but then realized my only planer bit is a dado clean out bit. It’s too small and would take forever to do a slab. I ended up ordering 2 bits: (1) A Whiteside surfacing bit, ½” shank, with carbide tips, 2” cutting diameter and (2) a Binstak surfacing bit with Helix cutters, ½” shank, 3” cutting diameter. The helix cutters gives me 4 edges each and I ordered extra cutters. It will be interesting to see which one cuts smoother.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> Early into the project, I already have lessons learned: </span><o:p></o:p></p><ul type=disc><li class=gmail-m-1402286597796925941msolistparagraph style='mso-list:l0 level1 lfo3'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>I made the form pretty well. Very little leakage (very little) and used packing tape on the bottom and insides. The sides popped off easily and the bottom came off easily after using a wide putty knife.</span><o:p></o:p></li><li class=gmail-m-1402286597796925941msolistparagraph style='mso-list:l0 level1 lfo3'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>The mix went well. I used powdered pigment instead of liquid. Some people think liquid changes the chemistry of the mix. Thoughts on that? I’ve used liquid in small applications like filling a knot but also realize that big-box epoxy is way different than deep pour epoxy.</span><o:p></o:p></li><li class=gmail-m-1402286597796925941msolistparagraph style='mso-list:l0 level1 lfo3'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>For first timers like me: The deep pour epoxy is real thin so you have plenty of time to work with it (keep this in mind when making the form). Mine said a 72 hour cure. The longer the cure, the more time air bubble can come to the surface. I used a heat gun to bring bubbles to the surface and even after that, some still rose (not a problem as I will need to surface anyway). Thoughts on heat gun vs torch? </span><o:p></o:p></li><li class=gmail-m-1402286597796925941msolistparagraph style='mso-list:l0 level1 lfo3'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>I did not flatten the wood before the pour. My thought process was it was only 4/4 thick and if I flatten now and then again after the pour, it would be too thin. Not sure if that is a valid way to think about it. After watching more YouTube videos I think I could have saved epoxy and not have near the cleanup if I had flattened first.</span><o:p></o:p></li><li class=gmail-m-1402286597796925941msolistparagraph style='mso-list:l0 level1 lfo3'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>I should have screwed the wood down from the bottom. I didn’t realize it was floating until I noticed the cracks weren’t complexly filling. Some YouTubers use hot melt glue. Thoughts on holding wood down? One YouTuber used clamps but he had silicone pads to place the clamp head on. In the photos, the brick did help but I think the buildup on the bottom had already started. With 2 bricks touching wood, one came off clean and one was solidly epoxied to the top. Red brick is real hard and it would have taken a long time to sand off so I chiseled it off.</span><o:p></o:p></li><li class=gmail-m-1402286597796925941msolistparagraph style='mso-list:l0 level1 lfo3'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Given the wood wasn’t flattened before and I didn’t screw down the wood, I really overpoured. At the time I though that more was better and that I could always clean it up. In hind sight I’m having to clean up more and the underside of the top has 1/8” thick resin build. I think some would have leaked on the bottom but not 1/8” thick. A lot of YouTubers will either fill slightly under to plane wood first and some fill slightly over but none fill like I did </span><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Segoe UI Emoji",sans-serif'>☹</span><o:p></o:p></li><li class=gmail-m-1402286597796925941msolistparagraph style='mso-list:l0 level1 lfo3'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>I left the bark on. One YouTuber thought the bark could separate from the wood. I think the epoxy was so thin, it permeated the bark and will hold. Thoughts?</span><o:p></o:p></li><li class=gmail-m-1402286597796925941msolistparagraph style='mso-list:l0 level1 lfo3'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>I’m glad I started with a small table.</span><o:p></o:p></li></ul><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Brush Script MT"'>Chuck</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b>From:</b> Woodworkers <<a href="mailto:woodworkers-bounces@lists.sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers-bounces@lists.sawdusters.org</a>> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Gary C Williams via Woodworkers<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, July 19, 2021 1:01 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:woodworkers@sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers@sawdusters.org</a><br><b>Cc:</b> <a href="mailto:gcw804@aol.com" target="_blank">gcw804@aol.com</a><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Woodworkers] Resin Table<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Chuck, </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Show us some pictures when you get a chance.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>No matter what you use, you are either going to load up the sanding disks and belts, or dull your planer blades and router bits. I would probably go the route of using a jig and a router to level it, and then come back and do the final sanding with a Micro Mesh sanding pads..</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Router bits are relatively inexpensive.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Make sure to wear a respirator.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Good Luck. </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Gary Williams</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div id="gmail-m_-1402286597796925941yiv6749774290"><div><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> Which leads me to my questions:</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> What do you use to level the table and sand the resin? I tried a belt sander but it loads up real quickly. Will the resin dull my planer knives if I send it through the planer? I have a drum sander but if the belt sander loaded up, wouldn’t the drum sander? I thought about putting it back in the form and use a router to level. The top wasn’t totally level but I could use wedges to level, then route. The underside of the top has a good 1/8” to 3/16” of resin and I’d like to take that down to the wood. One YouTube video said they liked Micro Mesh sanding pads because they are porous and vacuum easily but that would be a lot of sanding to remove 1/8” or more.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> Advice? Thanks!</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Brush Script MT";color:black'>Chuck</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>_______________________________________________<br>I want to be one of my friends for a day so I can see how cool it is to hang out with me.<br></span><a href="mailto:Woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org" target="_blank"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org</span></a><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><br><br>To unsubscribe from this list -<br></span><a href="http://lists.sawdusters.org/listinfo.cgi/woodworkers-sawdusters.org" target="_blank"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>http://lists.sawdusters.org/listinfo.cgi/woodworkers-sawdusters.org</span></a><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><br><br>Address to contact the list ADMIN staff -<br></span><a href="mailto:woodworkers-owner@lists.sawdusters.org" target="_blank"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>woodworkers-owner@lists.sawdusters.org</span></a><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><p class=MsoNormal>_______________________________________________<br>I want to be one of my friends for a day so I can see how cool it is to hang out with me.<br><a href="mailto:Woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org" target="_blank">Woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org</a><br><br>To unsubscribe from this list -<br><a href="http://lists.sawdusters.org/listinfo.cgi/woodworkers-sawdusters.org" target="_blank">http://lists.sawdusters.org/listinfo.cgi/woodworkers-sawdusters.org</a><br><br>Address to contact the list ADMIN staff -<br><a href="mailto:woodworkers-owner@lists.sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers-owner@lists.sawdusters.org</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></div></body></html>