<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Usually, the blade loads up when the pitch is too fine. 3 TPI usually does the job. <br><br><div dir="ltr"><ul style="margin-bottom: 0.75em; margin-left: 2em; padding: 0px;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.5em; padding: 0px;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Everything is always okay in the end, if it's not, then it's not the end.</span></li></ul></div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On May 1, 2021, at 3:26 PM, Bob Harper via Woodworkers <woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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If the blade is loading up, is the brush on the lower wheel not cleaning as it should or is there no brush on your saw? Just a thought.
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Sometimes, the best choice of tool is a big frickin' hammer.<br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Woodworkers <woodworkers-bounces@lists.sawdusters.org> on behalf of Rick Allen via Woodworkers <woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, May 1, 2021 7:41:46 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> woodworkers@sawdusters.org <woodworkers@sawdusters.org><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Rick Allen <rla_buy@yahoo.com><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Woodworkers] Resawing</font>
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<div dir="ltr">I have never been taught how to resaw and this is my “made up way” of doing it. Also I don’t resaw very much, maybe 20 bf a year. No doubt there are better methods.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">My understanding of drift is to account for the drift as yo cut by adjusting the angle of attack. The only pressure on the board as you cut is at the pushing end of the board. A lot of folks like to use a fence and press the board against the
fence as they cut. I find that doing so causes the blade to bow in the wood. I like the pressure at the cut to be neutral except for the push from the end of the board.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">On Apr 30, 2021, at 10:34 PM, chuck.steger--- via Woodworkers <woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org> wrote:<br>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:14.0pt; font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">I’m going to respond to my own post and ask a question. I made 2 changes, I cut the width of the board down and used my other BS with a ¾” 3 tpi hook tooth blade (different
BS blade lengths so different blade). This worked. But, I noticed when I cut the wide board, it cut fast and easy (albeit, drifting) and the new cut was on the line but cut slower. I had to the clean the blade with a brass brush after each cut because the
saw dust from the rosewood was caked on the blade. Tedious but worth the effort to get a good clean cut (no drift at all).
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:14.0pt; font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">So the question is, if you over tension a blade does that cause drift? Because my only 2 culprits are blade sharpness and tension, right?</span></p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:18.0pt; font-family:"Brush Script MT"">Chuck</span></p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> chuck.steger@gmail.com <chuck.steger@gmail.com>
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<b>Sent:</b> Friday, April 30, 2021 9:59 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> woodworkers@sawdusters.org<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Resawing</p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">I have a couple of band saws where I keep a ¼” blade on one and a ½” blade for resawing on the other (yeah, lazy!). In the past I would use a wider blade for resawing but
really liked the ½” 6 TPI blade so I kept it on. Yesterday I was resawing a 11” wide by 14” long piece of Bolivian Rosewood (real dense wood). I used the ½” blade and it was slow going but never drifted and cut beautifully. In fact, that’s why I use this blade
– no drift. However, when I was finished and looked at the blade, the gullets were full, the blade was caked with saw dust and I honestly was surprised it did so well. So, I changed to a ¾” 3 TPI hook tooth blade. It cut much faster and easier but drifted
like a son of a gun. In fact, it drifted so badly, it ruined the piece. The good news is I needed a thinner piece, so that became the thinner piece. But, when I was sanding both pieces on the drum sander it was obvious how badly it drifted. Because the previous
blade cut to the line with no drift, I could cut 1/16” over my finished thickness. However, with the ¾” blade, I couldn’t. So, I marked a ½” line to get a finished 3/8” thickness. As I monitored the cut, it was drifting so badly, I had to stop or it would
have cut into my 3/8” thickness. BTW, it drifted at the bottom and I was monitoring the top which is why I didn’t see it the first time.</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">So, all that to ask why the drift? Is the blade not sharp enough (I had used it before so maybe dull?), not tensioned enough, or ???? I think it was tensioned enough but I
still throw it out there as a question. Why would the ½” cut so beautifully and the ¾” cut so badly? I cleaned up the ½” and was tempted to put it back on but I don’t want to because it’s really not designed to do what I was doing.</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">One thing I’m going to try today it to cut the 11” width down to a narrower piece (that I would need anyway) and try resawing a narrower piece.</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">I ordered new blades but, of course, they won’t be here for a few days and I want to resaw today.</span></p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:18.0pt; font-family:"Brush Script MT"">Chuck</span></p>
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