<div dir="ltr">It is 100% Crystal Clear resin epoxy 2part system Just remember this material has a very very short pot lift the container that is mixed in will become extremely HOT. it should be placed on the wood somwwhat thicker than regular paint as the wood must not flex or it will crack </div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Jul 14, 2015 at 2:02 PM, Jim Cabernoch via Woodworkers <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div>Another 2-part epoxy option--Aeromarine Products, San Diego, CA. Excellent quality products, colorants, and advice. Look them up on the web. I've had excellent results using their products to fill cracks and voids in mesquite projects.<br></div>Jim<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><div><div class="h5"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Jul 14, 2015 at 11:01 AM, via Woodworkers <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><font face="arial" color="black" size="2">Dave,
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<div>It looks great. You've certainly mastered the butterfly process!</div>
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<div>Gary Williams<br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><div><div>-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Dave Heitstuman via Woodworkers <<a href="mailto:woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers@lists.sawdusters.org</a>><br>
To: woodworkers <<a href="mailto:woodworkers@sawdusters.org" target="_blank">woodworkers@sawdusters.org</a>>; t.lovelace <<a href="mailto:t.lovelace@pobox.com" target="_blank">t.lovelace@pobox.com</a>>; Tom Lovelace <<a href="mailto:t.lovelace@icloud.com" target="_blank">t.lovelace@icloud.com</a>><br>
Sent: Tue, Jul 14, 2015 12:50 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Woodworkers] encapsulation material?<br>
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d">Tom the tables I have been helping the neighbor with are made from recycled timbers and are rough saw to thickness. On the current table he has played with a hand plane to knock the edges down. We then rough sand with 80 grit and fine sand with 180. Trust me these tables are not smooth. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d">We then apply the stain and then start applying the urethane. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d">The product we are using is General Finishes Enduro and it takes about 6 coats to get the finish we are after. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d">On the first table we used foam brushes and sanded with 220 between coats. I think the sandpaper knocked some of the high edges off and it was allot of work both sanding and cleaning up. The two attached pictures are of the finish and the final coat after it dried.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d">On the current table we brushed it on and we are using 4/0 steel wool between coats. It really is all a big experiment but so far we are liking the steel wool over the sand paper. I also think we are getting more product laid down with the brushes. We experiment on the bottom to make sure we like what we have going and then we do the top. I do not have pictures of the top yet as we just applied the stain last night. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d">The first table is his dining room table and as he puts it considering the abuse it gets it has stood up really well.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d">Let me know if you need more info we can talk on the back channel or even by phone, (sometimes the phone seems simpler).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d">2Dave </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1f497d"> </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext"> Woodworkers [<a href="mailto:woodworkers-bounces@lists.sawdusters.org?" target="_blank">mailto:woodworkers-bounces@lists.sawdusters.org</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Tom Lovelace via Woodworkers<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 14, 2015 9:00 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Wood Forum<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Woodworkers] encapsulation material?</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal"> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">A friend has made a table top of old barn wood and wants to finish it without sanding it smooth.<br>
Would a encapsulation material similar to epoxy work in this case?<br>
I remember seeing cafe table tops like this that were totally covered on top and sides with such a material.<br>
The covering appeared to be at least an eighth inch thick.<br>
Some even had coins placed on the table top prior to applying the clear material.<br>
Anyone know what this stuff is? Ever used it? How is it applied? Where to get it?<br>
Thanks in advance !</div>
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Have you ever wondered how the rock, paper and scissors settle an argument?<br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br></div></div><span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888">-- <br><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div> Jim Cabernoch<br></div>Owner<br></div><div>Cabbies Woodshop<br></div><div>Altadena, CA<br></div><div><div><a href="tel:626-296-1763" value="+16262961763" target="_blank">626-296-1763</a><br>cell <a href="tel:661-755-6045" value="+16617556045" target="_blank">661-755-6045</a><br><br><br><font color="#ff0000"><b><br></b></font><font color="#ff0000"><b><u><br></u></b></font> <br></div></div></div></div></div></div>
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