[Woodworkers] Resin Table

Tue Jul 20 13:50:38 PDT 2021

   Some “before” pictures. Hopefully the “after” pictures will be better 🤞

   As usual, I appreciate everyone’s tips! I spent yesterday making a shop-made slab flattening jig. I finished the router carrier and rails but then realized my only planer bit is a dado clean out bit. It’s too small and would take forever to do a slab. I ended up ordering 2 bits: (1) A Whiteside surfacing bit, ½” shank, with carbide tips, 2” cutting diameter and (2) a Binstak surfacing bit with Helix cutters, ½” shank, 3” cutting diameter. The helix cutters gives me 4 edges each and I ordered extra cutters. It will be interesting to see which one cuts smoother.

   Early into the project, I already have lessons learned: 

*	I made the form pretty well. Very little leakage (very little) and used packing tape on the bottom and insides. The sides popped off easily and the bottom came off easily after using a wide putty knife.
*	The mix went well. I used powdered pigment instead of liquid. Some people think liquid changes the chemistry of the mix. Thoughts on that? I’ve used liquid in small applications like filling a knot but also realize that big-box epoxy is way different than deep pour epoxy.
*	For first timers like me: The deep pour epoxy is real thin so you have plenty of time to work with it (keep this in mind when making the form). Mine said a 72 hour cure. The longer the cure, the more time air bubble can come to the surface. I used a heat gun to bring bubbles to the surface and even after that, some still rose (not a problem as I will need to surface anyway). Thoughts on heat gun vs torch? 
*	I did not flatten the wood before the pour. My thought process was it was only 4/4 thick and if I flatten now and then again after the pour, it would be too thin. Not sure if that is a valid way to think about it. After watching more YouTube videos I think I could have saved epoxy and not have near the cleanup if I had flattened first.
*	I should have screwed the wood down from the bottom. I didn’t realize it was floating until I noticed the cracks weren’t complexly filling. Some YouTubers use hot melt glue. Thoughts on holding wood down? One YouTuber used clamps but he had silicone pads to place the clamp head on. In the photos, the brick did help but I think the buildup on the bottom had already started. With 2 bricks touching wood, one came off clean and one was solidly epoxied to the top. Red brick is real hard and it would have taken a long time to sand off so I chiseled it off.
*	Given the wood wasn’t flattened before and I didn’t screw down the wood, I really overpoured. At the time I though that more was better and that I could always clean it up. In hind sight I’m having to clean up more and the underside of the top has 1/8” thick resin build. I think some would have leaked on the bottom but not 1/8” thick. A lot of YouTubers will either fill slightly under to plane wood first and some fill slightly over but none fill like I did ☹
*	I left the bark on. One YouTuber thought the bark could separate from the wood. I think the epoxy was so thin, it permeated the bark and will hold. Thoughts?
*	I’m glad I started with a small table.

Chuck

From: Woodworkers <woodworkers-bounces at lists.sawdusters.org> On Behalf Of Gary C Williams via Woodworkers
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 1:01 PM
To: woodworkers at sawdusters.org
Cc: gcw804 at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Woodworkers] Resin Table

Chuck, 

Show us some pictures when you get a chance.

No matter what you use, you are either going to load up the sanding disks and belts, or dull your planer blades and router bits. I would probably go the route of using a jig and a router to level it, and then come back and do the final sanding with a Micro Mesh sanding pads..

Router bits are relatively inexpensive.

Make sure to wear a respirator.

Good Luck. 

Gary Williams

  Which leads me to my questions:

   What do you use to level the table and sand the resin? I tried a belt sander but it loads up real quickly. Will the resin dull my planer knives if I send it through the planer? I have a drum sander but if the belt sander loaded up, wouldn’t the drum sander? I thought about putting it back in the form and use a router to level. The top wasn’t totally level but I could use wedges to level, then route. The underside of the top has a good 1/8” to 3/16” of resin and I’d like to take that down to the wood. One YouTube video said they liked Micro Mesh sanding pads because they are porous and vacuum easily but that would be a lot of sanding to remove 1/8” or more.

   Advice? Thanks!

Chuck

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