[Woodworkers] Christmas present help needed!!

Chuck Steger chuck.steger at gmail.com
Mon Dec 18 18:52:53 PST 2017


Things are looking better today and a big shout-out and thank you to
everyone who weighed in on my panic attack J. Things have progressed better
by the end of the day today. This morning I went into the shop to find my
rescue attempt had failed and now I had two warped panels. I headed to HD
with my moisture meter and checked the MC on the 1x4 cedar and it was 6%. I
have to give a huge thank you to Clint for recommending the cedar. This was
a home run!! Not only is it dry enough but it is also stable and pretty
flat. I’ve never used it before so didn’t realize that they planed the back
perfectly smooth and flat but leave the front rough. This is perfect for
what I’m trying to do. It virtually eliminates the step to texture the wood!
It’s the exact look I was going for. Thanks!

 

I only had to prep the edges for glue up. With only clamps across the joints
(i.e. no clamps holding the panel flat), it is sitting perfectly flat
against the clamps – no gaps. I did alternate the clamps to spread out the
clamping pressure (2 up and 1 down). So far, it looks encouraging!! Fingers
crossed!

 

Chuck

 

From: Woodworkers [mailto:woodworkers-bounces at lists.sawdusters.org] On
Behalf Of Chuck Steger via Woodworkers
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2017 7:07 PM
To: 'A place where woodworkers talk about woodworking'
Cc: Chuck Steger
Subject: Re: [Woodworkers] Christmas present help needed!!

 

   I ended up spending the day trying to rescue what I had. The one panel
made of 1x4’s is twisted and can’t be fixed. But the one I made out of
milled 2x4’s had a cup in the center. Quite frankly, if the convex part of
the cup was on the show side. I probably would have called it good. That
would have put the sides flat against the wall and stable but if you looked
from the top or bottom, you would see a gap in the middle. No one would see
if from top or bottom (much) so I would have settled. However, the convex
side was on the back so the middle of the panel would hit the wall first and
it would have been wobbly. Given my time crunch, I decided to try to take
the cup out using a jointer plane, finish plane, and a belt sander. I know
that would have made the middle boards thinner than the end boards, but
against a wall, who would notice. I was not successful doing that. So I
decided to cut the panel  in 2 (which cut my cleats also but now I only had
to align 2 panels, not 9 boards), plane it flat, and re-glue. This kind of
worked. The problem was the planer pushed the panels flat so they were still
not totally flat. So then I had this idea to use the TS as a jointer. In
other words, If I hold then end of the ½ panel flat against the TS, it
elevates the cut end a little (1/8”). I then did the same to the other ½
panel. In effect, what this did was when I glued both panels back together,
the ends stayed flat to the table and the joint closed with no gaps. If you
look under the panel, you see the ends fat on the table and the middle
raised by about ¼”. I will find out tomorrow if this worked. I hate to even
admit I’m doing it that way and with more time, I would remake from scratch
with all of your suggestions. But, alas, time is not my friend. If I get the
panel to look flat against the wall and not rock, I am going to call that
success! Stay tuned.

 

Chuck

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.sawdusters.org/pipermail/woodworkers-sawdusters.org/attachments/20171218/710d0a37/attachment.html>


More information about the Woodworkers mailing list